How to set up the lug rig (Pram and Stem dinghies) 

Our lug rig is very simple to set up, and where possible we try to show customers how it's done during collection/delivery.

But if you've forgotten how to do something, or perhaps we never met you (eg overseas customers), these notes are intended to help.

Start by screwing the mast together (if sectional), then slotting the mast into its step, ensuring the pin at the bottom of the boat locates into the slot in the bottom of the mast. 

 

The halyard should be threaded through its sheave at the top - may be
easier before you step the mast, depending on situation - and the mast
turned so that the cleat at the bottom is on the starboard side of boat
(right hand side of boat looking forward).
 

 

The yard, with sail laced on (assuming you've left it as supplied), and boom if you've got one, should be placed in the boat with the yard uppermost, and the sailmaker's logo to the front, on the port side of the mast. 

Then take the end of the halyard that exits the top sheave on the port side of the mast, and thread it through the aftermost of the two eyes on the yard. (In this picture you are looking from the front of the boat towards the back.)

Now lead the halyard around the back of the mast and tie it onto the forward of the two eyes on the yard.

What you have made is a noose around the back of the mast, so that the halyard serves both to pull the sail up the mast, and also to keep it located close to it (otherwise it will tend to swing away on starboard tack).  

The thin rope between the two eyes is there to reduce chafe between the yard and the mast.

 

 

This picture shows how the yard should look when it has been hauled most of the way up the mast, looking aft.

The "noose" means that if you don't haul the yard all the way up the mast, or have reefed (if reef fitted) and deliberately kept the sail lower, the yard still stays tight to the mast. 

Note that the tail of the halyard - the end you pull - passes outside of the noose. 

You don't have to worry too much about how tightly the halyard is pulled, as the next stage is to clip the downhaul tackle, located at the front lower corner of the sail (or boom if fitted and as shown) to the eye on the boat.

This makes adjusting the luff (leading edge) tension easy, and also stops the mast falling out of the boat if you capsize beyond 90 degrees. In general the more wind you have, the tighter you pull the downhaul. 

 

You need to insert the daggerboard into its slot... 

... and the rudder pintles into the gudgeons (holes) on the stern. 

You will probably forget (we always do!) to put the tiller underneath the horse (piece of rope which runs across the stern between the two knees.

Then you need to thread or clip - depending on which arrangement you have - the mainsheet to the horse. It should look something like this.

If you have a loose-footed main (no boom) the sheet loops straight through the eye on the aft lower corner of the sail. 

 

All you need now is some wind, which there was almost none of in this shot,
but it serves to show what the whole thing should look like. 

 

The sail works quite well without a boom, but sailing off the wind -
90 degrees to the boat or further aft - and in light airs you may find it's
worth holding the sail out to prevent the bottom half collapsing on itself.


Another useful feature of this rig, when there's not enough wind, is that
the sail can be "brailed up" to the mast rather than lowered into the boat -
so it's not in the way!